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The Rio Cotahuasi: Jewel of the Andes- A First Descent by Franz Helfenstein

Page 6: The Story Continues...

In the morning a man trekking upstream informs us of Machu Pichu type ruins downstream, narrow gorges and some mellow water too. Today we hope to reach the town of Quechualla where Jose Luis plans to have chicken dinners waiting. Everything goes smoothly for once. The quick and easy portage around a 5' ledge pour is followed by 3 Class IV rapids we name ÒBroken Neck CanyonÓ. 5 km of easy boating brings us to Quechualla in time to catch Jose Luis bartering for dinner while we can see what we're getting.

During the night my hiking boots take a walk. Everyone's goodies have been slowly disappearing too. Snickers bars seem to be the favorite target. Dave canÕt find his sunglasses or his polarizer filter and thinks he left/lost his polarizer in Velinga so he convinces Oso to hike back and search for his stuff. Oso is Jose LuisÕ number one suspect for Robin Hood. Talk about the fox in the chicken coop.

The locals describe a spot downriver 1 meter wide and 4 meters high with sheer walls on both sides of the river. They offer guide services for 15 soles/day ($7.50) to show us trails around this supposedly impassable spot. For the first time they haven't told us how "tranquillo" it is so we're taking this report quite seriously.

From our topos weÕve always expected the gorges below Toccecc to contain the crux of our trip. The pack trail climbs over 5,000 ft to avoid this section. A big discussion begins: We all want to push on but our past experience makes us cautious. Should we camp here and spend a few days scouting? That way weÕve got an easy out if the canyon becomes impassable. Should we push on? If we push on and have to climb out of there itÕs going to make our ride in ÔThe BeastÕ seem like a picnic. Should we hire a guide? Should we keep the burros on standby in case we canÕt go on but can return? WeÕve already spent most of our cash on that comedy show. How much food should we bring? How about the climbing rope?

I think the last few days of moderate boating, the desire to escape the gear poaching and our inherent optimism convinces us to push on. If we end up back here weÕll deal with the burro issue at that time. Jose Luis will take the trail and meet us at Chaucalla where the Rio Cotahuasi and Rio Meran form the Rio Oco–a. However, Lucho decides to hike along with the understanding that heÕs on his own this time. We head down river with 5 days food and our new guide, Aberlardo.

I'm trip leader for today. Right away thereÕs a cliff that wasnÕt there the last time Aberlardo guided an expedition through here. We ferry Lucho and Aberlardo across the river after Aberlardo assures us they can walk from there the rest of the way to the nasty section awaiting us. Although we risk life and limb for a cheap thrill I know that 15 soles is money enough to encourage our guide to exceed any risks we would take.

Before long we come to another ÔnewÕ cliff that cannot be passed on foot. Of course this is absolutely the last cliff, right? It's clear that Aberlardo is becoming something of a liability. He and Lucho want to go in the Shredder but it's Class III and IV which nixes that idea. While we eat lunch I decide to pay off our guide and send him back. It's safer to continue on our own. Lucho decides to try and continue downstream on his own too. At this point the biting insects become very bad. Did we offend AberlardoÕs Inca ancestors? Is this an omen? What nightmare awaits us?

The Inca ruins have become increasingly prevalent all day. Below Toccecc the ruins are everywhere with sections of Camino Inca (the Inca Trail) still clinging to the cliffs. What an incredible civilization was here at one time. Climbing around the ruins, Gian Marco flushes a condor from it's nest and it flies less than 100 ft over my head. Awesome!

We cover lots of miles. The expected waterfall has yet to materialize. We find a nice camp at "Campimento Minero" - An old mining camp and have an early dinner of beans, rice, couscous and Ramen.

Pepe Lopez is trip leader today and we're up early. IÕm informed that my dinner has caused some gastric distress. Perhaps itÕs AberlardoÕs revenge. This is black humor indead. Though weÕre all vaccinated for Typhoid none are vaccinated for Cholera which is epidemic in Peru. We boil or filter all water yet we continue to experience a good dose of intestinal maladies. In the end all I can say is, Ògastric distress; very Peruvian.Ó

Inca ruins line the entire canyon now with extensive terraces, roads, aqueducts and buildings. The terraces are in every possible location and then some. Many ruins are covered by huge mud flows that must slide down the canyon walls every rainy season. It's absolutely unimaginable how the Inca could build a civilization in this environment while keeping this infrastructure together.

The rapids are now more reasonable with the river pinching in to narrow slots in mini-gorges. The first has a cable across the river and is called "Ayacucho" - Corner of the Dead. Somewhere near here are hundreds of mummies resulting from the Incan practice of open burial. Nothing rots here it just desiccates. A Class IV rapid into a 4 foot wide slot followed by a long gorge has the most incredible ruins weÕve seen lining both sides. We name this mile long, 100 ft deep gorge "One Meter Canyon".