enlarge the photo

The Rio Cotahuasi: Jewel of the Andes- A First Descent by Franz Helfenstein

Page 2: The Story Continues...

By two in the morning we can't stand it any longer and turn off the engine for some sleep without the diesel exhaust. We're still 4,000 - 5,000 ft from the Rio Cotahuasi as the stone drops but maybe 4 hours of switch-backs in 'The Beast'. Just then, the local bus goes by and I jokingly say that's probably John, Greg and Fico beating us to the put-in. Well, sure enough, the next morning as we pull into Cotahuasi there they are. What took us 2-1/2 days took them only 14 hours, though from trading stories we're not sure who had it worse.

Right from the start Jose Luis Valderama is haggling for accommodations, meals and logistical support. Jose Luis works for TV-2 in Lima but he's here on his own time as an amateur videographer who plans to air his video when it's completed. Besides directing his video he's taken on the task of seeing that we party every chance we get, and it's already apparent that he's an indispensable part of our trip. It doesn't seem to matter whether Jose Luis is bargaining or celebrating, he's going at warp speed. Something of an anomaly for a Peruvian. His bargaining may sound like a nest of mad hornets but he sure knows all the angles and all the curves.

Cotahuasi is a beautiful town nearly 9,000 feet above sea level and situated about 1,500 feet above river level. Its extensive irrigation system makes for a lush and affluent region. I feel like the Pied Piper with the crowd of youngsters following our every move.

Everyone is supposed to keep one eye on the kids. Whenever they start poking into our gear a stream of Quechua, Spanish and gutter English instantly erupts from Jose Luis, Duilio, Gian Marco, Pepe Lopez and Pepe Negro to chase them off. Pepe Lopez organized last year's Rio Colca trip. He's a superb rafter and has a capable partner in Pepe Negro. The two Pepes and Fico will share paddling duties on the Shredder.

Kurt Casey and some others leave to check out a hot springs about 12 miles up the valley. I met Kurt for the first time last year on the Colca. He's boated all over the world and says Peru has some of the best boating to be had. His fluent Spanish and great sense of humor keeps everybody laughing. Meanwhile Dave Black, Jon Barker and I go scout for a put-in. I've boated with Dave for years. He, Jon and I just spent the last 3 months gorging on whitewater thrills in California, Oregon, Washington and Idaho. Obviously we're still hungry. Jon plans to run the entire river in an inflatable kayak.

The gorge we try to scout (Amana gorge) is incredible. It has sheer walls for 1,000 feet and from this far above we cannot tell whether we're seeing 15 foot waterfalls or 30 foot ones. In either case, the numerous cascades/waterfalls, our minimal climbing gear, lack of portage routes and impossible exits makes our decision easy. Let's skip this section for now; I'm starting to lose my appetite. We decide to launch a few miles below this at Piro where it appears more reasonable. Let's hope we don't have anything that extreme down below.

It's not long before we're getting our fill of whitewater. After three days of kayaking amazingly steep, boulder-choked whitewater we are already two days behind schedule. After portaging Sipia Cataract with its 500 ft waterfall, we hope to make up some miles. The locals have assured us the river is "tranquillo" in the canyon below. When we descend to the river, 1,500 ft below, sure enough there is a large pool where we take an evening bath. This place is known as "Huayrapjunku" - Wind Gate. The next morning reality sets in. Around the first bend is a huge landslide that has created a major Class V rapid followed by more of the same as far as we can see down the canyon...

We've been falling further and further behind in our schedule ever since the trip started. Our crawl across the Altiplano in the Peruvian version of a dragster should have tipped us off. Our recent delays started before we left the town of Cotahuasi 3 days ago.

By the time we returned to town from scouting the put-in Duilio and Jose Luis had arranged for our transport and we were all set for an early start the next morning (or so we thought). After breakfast, it soon became apparent that Jose Luis had hired the Peruvian equivalent of Laurel & Hardy to be our burro handlers. After 30 minutes they finally got one kayak loaded. While they were loading the second burro though, the first one went stumbling around town and knocked its kayak lose; dragging it about.

Before the burro loading was completed we learned that Juan had rolled 'The Beast' as he was winding his way out of the canyon on his return to Arequipa. Our trip began evaporating before our eyes. Duilio, Gian Marco, Pepe Lopez and Pepe Negro rushed off to see what had happened. This could be a major set back but we decided we would proceed to the river with all their gear and then meet them later if they could catch up.

After rearranging and loading all the burros we were still about 3 short with all the extra gear. Dave and I left our sleeping bags for a second load along with all our food. After all, we were told it's only 15 minutes to the put-in at Piro, 1,500 ft below town, right?